I have been crushing hard on this beautiful and intellectually stimulating Chianti from I Fabbri, a producer on the rise. Coming from the remote and elevated village of Lamole, this is 100% organic, old vine Sangiovese grown in sandy soils.
Even better, due to these sandy soils and the fact that Lamole is surrounded by thousands of acres of national forest, these vines are planted on their own rootstock and have never been affected by phylloxera. As you can see below, in a picture from my friend who visited I Fabbri, the vines are quite old....
2021 I Fabbri Chianti Classico Lamole: Here's why you should buy it:
- Drinking this is a lesson in how soil impacts flavor. There is a common theme to wines grown in sand, whether they be from Portugal, France, or Italy. Terms like elegant, highly aromatic, and ethereal are commonly used, and that's what you get in this gorgeous Chianti.
- It's only due to the efforts of Susanna Grassi, who reinvigorated the family farm in the 1990's, that we get to experience this wine. While her family had grown grapes and made wines since the 1600's, the estate fell into disrepair in the 1960's. Susanna brought it back to life!
- Grassi farms with zero chemicals (aka organic), and her work in the cellar subscribes to the notion of "minimal intervention." She adds a bit of sulfur at bottling so her wines will travel well.
- Can you say beauty in a glass? Pale ruby in color, this breathes of cool red fruits (cherry, cranberry, raspberry), rose petal, white pepper, and mineral. Crunchy and medium-bodied, way too easy to drink but not at all simple, this one can best be summed up with one word: ENCHANTING.
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