I tasted the new vintage of Vallana Barbera with Jay Murrie of Piedmont Wine Imports last week, and one question kept popping into my head.
How does a wine this good, from such a legendary producer, sell for less than $25?
I couldn’t come up with an answer, and neither could Jay, but we both agreed on this. It is unquestionably one of Italy’s greatest values in soulful, traditionally styled red wine. I’m thrilled to have it back in the shop, and the QPR here is just off the charts.
Vallana is one of the historic names of Alto Piemonte, with roots going back to 1787 and a modern estate founded in 1937. Long recognized as one of the great traditional producers of the region, they’ve built their reputation on Nebbiolo, but their Barbera is the sleeper in their portfolio and a great introduction to their classically delicious house style. It's also much more affordable and ready to drink...like tonight!
From the cooler, alpine-influenced vineyards of Alto Piemonte, about 90 miles north of Alba, this is a different expression of Barbera than what you get from the warmer zones further south. The wines of the Alto Piemonte are brighter, more lifted, and driven by minerality, with a clarity and energy that really stands out.
The 2024 Vallana Barbera delivers all of that and then some. Ripe red cherry, raspberry, plum, spice, and a distinct mountain minerality come through clearly. It’s juicy and energetic, with low tannin and vibrant acidity, but there’s more depth here than you might expect. Give it a little air and it really starts to show its layers.
This is the kind of red you want to have around for pizza, pasta with red sauce, and grilled meats, but don’t overthink it, it’s just as good on its own. At this price, it’s a total no-brainer.
If you love traditional, savory, and punchy Italian reds, you owe it to yourself to try this. My advice, don’t stop at one bottle.
Josh Spurling
Owner, Operator, Wine Monger
Table Wine Asheville
