Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media called the new Leo Steen Gimelli Vineyard Chardonnay a "total stunner." His 95-point review is certainly impressive, and after tasting this one last week, I think he got the score right.
The Gimelli Vineyard is a special site. Situated at 1,200 feet in the eastern hills of the Gabilan Mountains, its rocky, limestone-rich soils and cool marine influence shape a Chardonnay of natural freshness, energy, and minerality.
Flowing with bright notes of tangerine, white peach, lime, orange blossom, and a hint of crushed rock minerality, this is a Chardonnay with wonderful lift and focus. At the same time, the palate is juicy with just a touch of creaminess. I love those contrasting qualities. It's both vibrant and generous without ever feeling buttery or overdone.
So who's the man behind the wine? Denmark native Leo Hansen worked as a sommelier in some of Europe's finest restaurants before moving to Sonoma in 1999. He eventually found himself making wine at Stuhlmuller Vineyards, but he always wanted to do his own thing and craft the kinds of wines that inspired him during his years as a buyer and sommelier.
In 2004, he took the leap and started his own label. He works exclusively with hand-harvested fruit, relies on native yeast fermentations, and seeks out distinctive vineyard sites capable of producing wines with energy and a strong sense of place. His Gimelli Vineyard Chardonnay is a perfect example of that philosophy.
Just 245 cases were made, and I've got just 48 bottles up for grabs. Before I let you go, I'll share Mr. Galloni's notes with you:
"The 2023 Chardonnay Gimelli Vineyard is a total stunner. It offers a beguiling mix of bright acids, chalkiness and exotic tropical overtones that is so intriguing. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, tangerine oil and passion fruit all race across the palate. There's so much going on in the glass. The 2023 hits all the right notes; it is at once intellectual and also extremely fun. Don't miss it."
This is the sort of Chardonnay that works beautifully with roast chicken, grilled seafood, or creamy pasta dishes, but it's pretty darned good all by itself too.
This is very limited, and I won't be able to get more. You know what to do next!
Josh Spurling
Owner, Operator, Wine Monger
Table Wine Asheville
