Thevenet's Saint-Veran is a total rarity -- the top wine from a revered Burgundy producer for less than $35! What boggles my mind is that this single vineyard white doesn't cost 2x the price.
I personally think this golden-colored nectar is the top value in legendary importer Neal Rosenthal's portfolio. If you're in need of a world-class White Burg at a "house wine price," you are going to want to get in on this action.
A glass of Thevenet's Clos de l'Ermitage Saint Veran is a study in old vine Chardonnay grown in rocky, limestone soils. This intense and powerful white wine is in fine form this vintage, and that old vine style is on full display. As vines get older, their yields go down, their skins get thicker, and the wines they produce have more depth, character, flavor, and complexity.
The Thevenet family own the entire Clos de l'Ermitage Saint Claude site, and they are the only producer to make wine from this vineyard. This south-facing plot of nearly 100 year-old vines gets plenty of sunshine, and under these conditions, the grapes achieve optimal ripeness. Many producers would age this in oak, but not the Thevenets -- they ferment and age this one in concrete and stainless steel to preserve purity and terroir character.
I got into a bottle of this last night, and all I can say is WOW, it's another great vintage of this wine. Full bodied, super expressive, and showing aromas and flavors of white peach, Meyer lemon, apple, pear, acacia blossom, jasmine, and flint, this is what Saint Veran is supposed to taste like. Even better, despite the wine's weight and intensity, it remains light on its feet due to its refreshing acidity.
This always sells out fast whenever we can get our hands on it, and the 2024 will be no exception. If you manage to get some, enjoy a bottle with scallops, lobster, or crab for a decadent dining experience. No food required though, this makes for a wonderfully refreshing aperitif, and it also ages quite well.
I had a bottle of the 2020 recently from my cellar, and it was exquisite. I can't recommend this highly enough.
Josh Spurling
Owner, Operator, Wine Monger
Table Wine Asheville
