Domaine Berthenet takes great pride in their Aligote, the other white grape of Burgundy, and their current release is a splendid rendition of this grape. Bursting with energy and vitality, this will appeal to lovers of Chablis, Muscadet, Sauvignon Blanc, and other clean, crunchy, and crisp whites.
Often bland and forgettable, Aligote requires old vines, low yields, and a lot of TLC to produce a wine of merit. Father and son Jean-Pierre and Francois Berthenet have exactly that combination of factors in place. They own a tiny, 2 hectare plot of vines planted back in 1950, and it is these 70+ year-old vines that make this such a compelling wine.
2021 Domaine Berthenet Bourgogne Aligote
If you like clean and crisp whites like Sauvignon Blanc and/or Muscadet, you'll love this one!
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Based in the village of Montagny in the Cote Chalonnaise, Domaine Berthenet came into existence as an estate in 1974. For the previous 400 or so years, the Berthenet family were just growers, selling their grapes to the local cooperative. Needless to say, the family knows the region, the soils, the grapes, and the ups and downs of growing in this climate. Their decisions in the vineyard and the cellar are informed by many years of experience and rational intuition. This combination of knowledge and instinct is exactly what I look for in a producer.
Today, Francois and Jean-Pierre farm according to the principles of lutte raisonnee, an integrated approach to agriculture that incorporates organic and sustainable practices. I fully respect this approach, as farming is not an easy profession, and the Berthenets respect for the land ensures future generations can continue the family's work. Whatever they're doing, they're doing it right, and one sniff and sip of their Aligote will make that entirely clear.
Fermented in tank and aged on the lees for six months, this is Aligote with serious depth of flavor and a long and satisfying finish. Quite concentrated and fresh, this offers up wonderful aromas and flavors of pear, ripe citrus, green apple, green herbs, and rocky minerality. Possessing notes also found in un-oaked Chardonnays like Chablis and Macon combined with the zesty character of a Sauvignon Blanc or Muscadet.
While this is not a wine that will inspire ours of contemplation, it is one I think you'll find quite delightful. Enjoy with miso-glazed salmon, oysters, or mussels in a white wine, herb, and butter broth. If you need a recipe, just let me know :) Cheers and keep drinking delicious wines from small family estates, and keep trying new stuff....like Aligote!
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Josh Spurling
Owner, Operator, Wine Monger
Table Wine Asheville