The 2021 Caparsa Rosso di Caparsa is a wine I can't stop pondering. The essence of pure, traditional, and honest Sangiovese, it easily tops most Chianti Classicos, many of which cost a lot more.
"Paolo Cianferoni and his family craft deep, soulful wines loaded with character," says Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media. That's the understatement of the year. Taste this wine, and you'll know what I'm talking about.
2021 Caparsa Rosso di Caparsa
One of the great Tuscan vintages of the 21st century, one of the great red wine values of the vintage!
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In the impeccable 2021 vintage, one that Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media said yielded "some of the most exciting young wines I have tasted in more than 25 years," Paolo's Rosso really shines. 100% Sangiovese from Radda, the "holiest" of grounds in all of Chianti Classico, it is fermented and aged in cement tanks. That's why they can't call it Chianti Classico, which must be aged in barrel and bottle for at least a year before release.
Whatever the case, this is one of the top values of this prodigious vintage. Galloni raved about Caparsa's 2021 Chianti Classico, calling it "one of the highlights of the year." No, this isn't their Chianti Classico, but it contains grapes from the same vineyards, made by the same man, and it's wonderful.
One of the keys to enjoying this wine is giving it air, like a good 30 minutes or so. It really comes to live, exhibiting aromas and flavors that transport you to a warm and sunny Tuscan day. Dark cherry, spiced plum, smoky herb, and mint come screaming out of the glass. The palate is equally engaging with medium-bodied, fresh and zesty flavors of dark cherry, sunbaked herbs, and mineral that go on and on and on and on.
Caparsa is a one-man operation making some of the most compelling wines in Chianti Classico. Paolo Cianferoni is a very hands-on vigneron in the vineyard, but he's quite hands-off in the cellar. He nurtures his old Sangiovese vines with maximum TLC, yielding beautifully ripened fruit that form the foundation for his radiant red wines.
In the cellar, Paolo doesn't do much. He ferments with ambient/native yeast, and he bottles with just a tiny touch of sulfur and minimal fining and filtration. While his Chianti Classicos snag the big scores, it is his Rosso that I think is his greatest creation. It offers up a ton of quality and character at such a fair price.
If you are a fan of classic and traditional Tuscan reds, go ahead and spring for a six-pack. Drink some now with hearty fall stews and roasts, but tuck some away for enjoyment in 2028. Just 120 bottles available this year, as Paolo only made 400 cases.
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Josh Spurling
Owner, Operator, Wine Monger
Table Wine Asheville