At his winery Pattes Loup in Chablis, Thomas Pico is making some of the most exciting white wines in all of Burgundy. While he might be new on the scene, his wines "behave" like those from legends like De Moor, Raveneau, and Dauvissat.
The only difference is that Pico's wines are actually attainable, and they won't require a second mortgage to cover the cost...for now. I can all but guarantee his wines will soon become much harder to come by and much, much more expensive.
Thomas's 2022 Vent d'Ange Chablis is one of the most exciting white wines I've had in years. It's intense and full-bodied, but it's crackling with energy and minerality. It's a totally engaging white wine, and it's a must-have for lovers of world-class White Burgundies.
2022 Pattes Loup 'Vent d'Ange' Chablis
A Mineralic Masterpiece! - 96 points Josh Spurling
Chablis might be the most misunderstood of all of the Burgundy AOC's. "Real" Chablis does not come in a jug or a box, it comes from the chalky, rocky soils of this northern-most appellation of Burgundy, just south of Champagne. All Chablis is based upon Chardonnay, and the combination of soil, cool climate, and tradition give us wines of great freshness, longevity, and mineral complexity.
At Pattes Loup, the young Thomas Pico has established himself as one of the most exciting and visionary vignerons in all of France. He works with old vines, he is committed to organic viticulture, he hand-harvests and sorts, he ferments with native yeasts, and he ages his wines way longer than most of his peers.
Thomas's slow and intentional approach to winemaking was inspired by his mentors, Alice and Olivier de Moor. He set up shop next to this dynamic duo back in 2005, and he was heavily influenced by their methodologies. Today, his wines are very much in the quality spectrum of his mentors (and Raveneau and Dauvissat), but they are still a bit under-the-radar. I hate to be the one to tell you -- that is about to change.
One sniff and sip of this '22 Vent d'Ange Chablis, and I was in love : ) Being that I have a decent collection of Raveneau, De Moor, and Dauvissat in my personal cellar, I know what world-class Chablis smells and tastes like, and this is world-class Chablis. From 60+ year-old vines fermented and aged on the lees in tank and concrete eggs, I would totally guess this was a Premier Cru if tasted blind.
This is not your typical pop-and-pour, "enjoy with oysters" type of Chablis. While you can certainly do that, and it will make your night better for sure, this is a wine of terroir, serious substance, and longevity. It pours a deep straw, almost golden color, and it smells of chalk, oyster shell, and savory herb at first. With time in glass, plenty of swirling, and a bit of temperature, it really comes into its own.
Full-bodied and opulent, but high-toned and bright, this offers up a panoply of aromas and flavors. Meyer lemon, green apple, pear, dried honey, wet rock, and salty mineral all emerge from the glass and coat the palate with pure joy. Long on the finish, with a resounding note of rocky mineral, this is everything Chablis is supposed to be and more.
I had my first bottle of this just the other night with friends, and I'm dreaming about my next one with a big platter of oysters. I will also stash a few bottles in my cellar, as I know it's only going to get better. Drink now through 2035.
If you've made it to this point, I think you understand that this one really rang my bell. It will do the same for you.
