Tegan Passalacqua continues to wow me with the wines he makes under his Sandlands label, and his 96-point Mataro is another mind-bendingly delicious wine. I can say with certainty that there are not many other 96 pointers that sell for less than $45....
Produced from 120-year-old Mourvedre (aka Mataro) vines, Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media called it "magnificent" and said it "dazzles from start to finish." After getting into a bottle last night, I think the 96-point score is very well deserved.
2023 Sandlands Mataro Contra Costa County
96 points Antonio Galloni - Vinous Media
God bless the "wine trail blazers," and Tegan Passalacqua is certainly one of them. Not only does he oversee winemaking at Turley, he also has a little side project called Sandlands, where he focuses on the forgotten classic California varieties, primarily grown in decomposed granite (sand). The vineyards and regions he sources fruit from tend to be head-trained, dry-farmed and own-rooted, and very old.
His Mataro comes from an ancient block of vines in the Oakley Road Vineyard, one of our country's oldest vineyards. Fermented with native yeasts and whole clusters and aged in older, neutral French oak, it is one of the most exciting red wines I've had the pleasure to enjoy this year.
I'd happily put this up against the best-of-the-best Bandol Rouges, and it would perform well. I love the wine's balanced style that showcases the more elegant and energetic side of Mataro. I picked up classic Mourvedre notes of dark berries, cracked black pepper, brown spices, violet, and smoky herb, and the juicy acids carry those flavors through the long and satisfying finish.
Just in case you need a second opinion, here's what Mr. Galloni had to say. "The 2023 Mataro (Contra Costa County), from Oakley Road, is magnificent. It offers a beguiling mix of inky dark fruit, new leather, incense, licorice, chocolate and plum, with a whole range of floral and savory overtones that add character. A vivid, statuesque Mataro, the 2023 dazzles from start to finish. What a wine! Drink 2025 - 2043."
Yep, this has got some serious staying power, but I found it to be very enjoyable already. I would recommend you decant it for an hour or two, as it's a bit shy right out of the bottle. I'd also HIGHLY recommend you enjoy it with some grilled lamb chops with rosemary if you really want to have your mind blown.
