Leave it to the Sartarelli family to push Verdicchio beyond its boundaries. Arguably the greatest maker of Verdicchio on the planet, their single vineyard, micro-production Balciana Verdicchio is off-the-charts delicious, exotic, and singular in every way.
Verdicchio is undoubtedly one of Italy's most important native white grapes, and the Sartarelli family are masters of this ancient variety. They only make Balciana in the best years, very little makes it out of Italy, and every vintage back to 2006 has scored at least 93 points with Vinous Media.
2020 Sartarelli Balciana Verdicchio
One of Italy's finest and rarest whites, this is Verdicchio on steroids!
This is unlike any Verdicchio I've come across in my 25+ year career. It is not your typical light, salty, and Muscadet-like little number. Far from it, this is a grand, ripe, and golden wine that is produced from tiny yields of late-harvested fruit. Fermented completely dry, the finished wine is truly exceptional and a complete joy ride for the white wine adventurer.
I had my first bottle of this last summer while vacationing in Charleston. It was revelatory, as it was from the 2016 vintage. I'd never had Verdicchio with that much age on it, but the sommelier promised me it would be a wine that would make my head spin. She was right, and this rich, broad, and opulent white was one I could have easily mistaken for a top-flight White Chateauneuf or Condrieu.
At 15.5% ABV, this stuff is anything but shy, but you have to trust me when I say that it is totally balanced. As Vinous Media's Eric Guido said, for "all of its size and richness, the 2020 finishes tense, lightly structured, fresh and literally salty in nature." He went on to sum it up perfectly, calling the wine "a beauty."
My sales rep sent me home with a bottle last weekend, and I agree with everything Mr. Guido says. I will add that the aromas and flavors are super heady -- white peach, poached pear, honeyed citrus, white flowers, exotic spices, and more. Do not serve this too cold, and tuck a couple bottles into the cellar for 5 to 7 years. It has a track record for aging and improving.
I'm racking my brain about what dishes I think this would go well with, but I keep coming back to salty cheeses, smoked salmon, or save some for Thanksgiving. No food required though -- just sip on it slowly, and let it charm you, one sip at a time.
