It was Navied that told me I had to try Sylvain Pataille's Aligote, sometimes referred to as "the other White Burgundy." I was game, but I predicted I'd be disappointed, as the grape, even in the best of hands (Villaine, to name one), almost always left me wanting for more. One taste of Pataille's 2022 Aligote, and I was a changed man.
This was textural, rich, and layered Aligote. It was almost as if a human being could lift a grape to new heights, even though that thought is foreign to the concept of French terroir. But this wine had terroir, it had fruit, and it held my interest for hours. I bought as much as my friends at Advintage would let me, and that added up to 48 bottles.
- It's world-class White Burgundy. Pataille treats Aligote like it's a Grand Cru grape. Yields are low on his 50+ year-old vines, concentration is high, and the texture is superb.
- Sylvain is one of Burgundy's most talked-about young producers. For good reason, the guy is quality-driven all the way. Organic farming, hand-harvesting, native yeasts, aging in older barrels, it all makes sense when you taste the wine.
- Aligote is usually used to make Kir cocktails, but this is way too good for that. Drink this racy, delicious, textural, and bone-dry white by itself. Enjoy with oysters at Bull and Beggar, paella at Curate, or pasta carbonara at Cucina.
- Here are some notes from my Burgundy Guru Allen Meadows. "A very Aligote nose of green apple, citrus and spice" that leads into a palate of "racy, delicious and softly stony middle weight flavors that terminate in a dry, clean and refreshing finish that offers better depth and persistence than is typical for the genre."
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