Clos Saint Antonin's splendid Cotes du Rhone could easily be mistaken for a Chateauneuf du Pape, but it comes to you at less than $25.
Wine Spectator nailed it with their review. "A sanguine, silky red, with a polished mix of winey red fruit and cassis supported by earthy undertones of cigar box, incense and forest floor."
Purchased by the Sabon family in 2014, this is an estate I've been keeping my eyes on for the past few years. The Sabons also own Domaine de la Janasse, one of Chateauneuf's top estates, and they know a thing or two about the land, the grapes, and the conditions of the Southern Rhone. That becomes totally obvious when you get into a bottle of their Cotes du Rhone. Serious wow wine here you all!
Isabelle Sabon is heading up this new project, and the reason her Cotes du Rhone is so "Chateauneuf-y" is because it comes from the Plan de Dieu appellation. With its clay, sand, and galet-studded soils, almost identical to what you'd find in Chateauneuf, it is one of the Cotes du Rhone Villages that is garnering a lot more respect these days.
It also doesn't hurt that this baby has 5 years of age on it! A blend of 80% Grenache, and 10% each Mourvedre and Syrah brought up and aged in huge, neutral French oak demi-muids, this is in its sweet spot drinking window currently. As Jeb Dunnuck said when he reviewed it in late 2022, it "has plenty of structure and depth" and "it will keep for 4-6 years."
It has definitely "kept well," and I got into a bottle last night for "educational purposes" of course : ) It's showing very well, with killer notes of kirsch, cassis, dark raspberry, cracked black pepper, and garrigue on the nose. Even better on the palate, you can sense that this has some age on it because while it is full and rich, the tannins are silky and plush.
Pleasure-bent, opulent, and stupid-good all come to mind when I ponder this Baby Chateauneuf. Get some to drink through 2027, and enjoy with grilled or braised meats.
Josh Spurling
Owner, Operator, Wine Monger
Table Wine Asheville
